Belgrade (white city) is big, especially compared to boutique capital Ljubljana, but also to Zagreb. After driving through brutalism ‘new city’ at the other side of Danube river, I arrived in the old part which has buildings of many epochs.

In Ljubljana, there were cyclists all over the place but here due to hilly areas its more of a cars and pedestrian city together with trams and trolleybuses. Belgrade was the southernmost capital of Austrian Hungarian Empire and place of many wars with the Ottomans. To see a bit of the earliest history I went to the castle hill with walls from the Roman era. Despite the hot summer sun it was a very nice afternoon walk in the area which lead me to the best vegetarian restaurant here so far – Radost. It’s basically inside a flat with very friendly staff and selective interior.

 A beer from local local brewery:

Because I was really hungry no picture of the main dish, which was vegan burgers in homemade buns. Tip: get both kinds, I better liked the one I would’t have chosen.

Dessert was a mint cake with cashews and chocolate:

Belgrade is famous for its nightlife, so I started the night at the Kafanas for different kinds of rakija, a fruit distillate beginning with the ‘default’ bersion, a good homemade plum rakija. Later, everybody goes to the party boats which provide fine clubbing until the morning. Daylight again and music was done so I crossed exhausted the bridge back to city.

Next day I attended the free city tour. The guide spanned the history from Romans and Celts over to Yugoslavia and now Serbia while showing landmarks. Afterwards I went to the small Nikola Tesla museum where not only exhibits are shown but also an ‘energetic’ live demonstration of different apparatus including Tesla coils is given.