Back in Montenegro, Safari Camping near Ulcinj. So different to Albania. Everybody accepts cerdit cards, everything is in € and most options in restaurant are with meat. The camping spot is loud due to tons of families, also the sandy beach right in front is crowded with folks. I wonder what people didn’t bring for camping here – looks like everything from home was transferred to only have a different view. Also the facilities are worn down, broken and dirty. Was so clean at Lake Shkodra Resort.

Thinking about the last days in Tirana. I had a delicious dinner at A La Sarte, a small hidden restaurant in Bloku district. Bloku was for communist party members only and basically a forbidden city where also the dictator Hoxha himself lived. Again – in that country are still many and good veg options, let’s see for how long when one looks to the neighbourung countries.

The Free Walking Tour I attended yesterday was one of the best so far. Before it started I sat on a bank with a nice elderly looking local man who only spoke local language. We managed to understand each other quite well and he told me that he learned no foreign language due to communism regime. I felt quite touched by this talk – if everybody would just try a bit more, couldn’t we all live in peace together and understand others even if we don’t speak the same language?

After that, the big walking tour group gathered and we dived into the Albanian history. Very interesting were also the personal experiences of our guide of the times of dictatorship. For instance he apologized for people driving not that good because 20 years ago there were no private cars at all.

The day before the tour I visited the Museum of National History which spans the story of stone age, Illyrians, independence movements to uprising over communism. The classical kind of display was interesting for me, despite the hot rooms without proper AC.

Berat, city of 1000 windows. After Sarajevo and Mostar I went via Montenegro to lake Shkodra for some days of camping. 

 
Lake Shkodra Resort has a nice staff and facilities are very clean.

During my stay I went for a trip to the remote and famous Theth valley in Albanian alps. Took northern route to valley, which was first asphalt with some holes, then  a new and perfect small road up to mountain pass. There the old rugged trail started. However, by driving slowly it was bo issue for the Jeep. Some locals even drove there in normal cars (Mercedes). After artiving in Thethi I felt like asking 20 people, passing some sheep herds and a moaning funeral procession near the church to finally arrive at my guesthouse. Met a very nice Albanian family from USA/Montenegro, did a hike and eating together while learning lots of interesting bits about local history. 

 
The next day I went back to Camping area via the southern route which was longer and more demanding but by far less crowded – it’s usually only used in winter times when northern route is closed due to snow. 

 
After 4 hours of bumpiness I was happy to reach paved road again and went back via Shkodër to the camping spot only to face the worst weather so far in the evening. Thunderstorm and very heavy rains throughout the night. In the morning my tent was dirty but dry inside – others hadn’t have that luck and were soaked by the rain, motorbikes fell over during the night as soil went into muddy soup.

Lucky me just cleaned up the tent, said goodby to my tent neighbours who watched over my spot while I was in Thethi and the nice staff. Then went on to Berat – the city of 1000 windows.

Had a great parking spot right in front of the old town with the famous buildings.

  
 
After checking out the fortress area and the beautiful views yesterday evening I’m now heading for Tirana, capital of Albania.